How to Wear a Trench Coat: Outfit Guide for Men

 

Trench coats are an excellent investment for not only a winter wardrobe but a trans-seasonal one as well. Initially designed as a military garment, modern styles are the perfect balance of functionality and form. They keep the wind and rain out, so you stay dry and warm. Plus, thanks to Hollywood heartthrobs like Steve McQueen and Humphrey Bogart, they have an extra glamorous allure that makes them a timeless staple in any well-dressed gent’s coat collection.

 

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Trench Coat History

The trench coat has a long and storied history. The earliest incarnations of trench-style coat came from Scotland in the early 1800s, with the Macintosh raincoat, made from rubberized cotton. Then, in 1853, John Emary released an improved raincoat under the Aquascutum brand. He produced this double-breasted, ankle-length garment for British soldiers during the Crimean, Boer, and Russo-Japanese Wars. Thomas Burberry also released a trench coat. He pioneered Gabardine in 1879 — waterproof cotton that was lightweight as well as waterproof, providing flexibility. Both proved popular among officers and solider in the Boer Wars and World War I, keeping soldiers warm and dry in the trenches. By the 1940s, it had shed some of its militaristic overtones when Hollywood stars such as Humphrey Bogart and Steve McQueen brought romanticism, adventure, and mystery to the style by wearing it on the silver screen.

 

 

Trench Coat Outfits

Burberry Trench Coat

Trench coat aficionados will tell you that Thomas Burberry invented the original trench coat (although it’s probably best not to get into any conversation with somebody who introduces themselves as a ‘trench coat aficionado’). He invented them as an alternative for French and British soldiers to the heavy serge coats they were wearing at the time. Originally only made available to Army officers, they grew in popularity when veterans returned and began wearing them as part of their everyday getup.  This combined with the fact that the British Army ordered far too many, interest in the style piqued and the big surplus was made available to the public. Today, Burberry still makes the classic double-breasted style although they also sell a range of single-breasted coats.

 

 

 Double-Breasted Trench Coat

The heritage choice, a double-breasted coat with between six and ten buttons and wide lapels. Many double-breasted designs come with a waist belt which can make the coat appear a better fit. It is important to consider the fit of any trench coat you buy, especially if you plan on wearing the coat buttoned up and with fewer layers underneath. If you’re someone who likes to wear lots of layers beneath a coat, a more relaxed fit could be a good choice. As with any coat, you may need to have adjustments made to ensure you’re looking your best. The double-breasted design epitomizes a classic look while sending the message that the wearer is a little more elegant.

 

 

Casual Trench Coat

If you plan on having just one trench coat in your wardrobe’s rotation, then choosing a versatile, classic look is a better option for both casual and formal looks. That being said, there are some trench coats that work well for a dressed-down style. Even when buying a casual trench coat, flexibility is still important; you may be wearing the coat with jeans one day and a tie the next. For a casual style look for a thigh-length trench coat in beige, stone, navy, or khaki. Single-breasted coats that are left unbuttoned will appear more laid back.

 

 

Office Trench Coat

An open trench coat is a terrific item of clothing to add to your winter office rotation. Able to walk the line between stylish and practical and complementary to a tie, suit, sweater vest or open shirt. Choose a more conservative style and color, with beige, tan and black the best choices for office wear. By choosing a design without the waist belt gives you more options when styling.

 

 

Military Green Trench Coat

Considering the trench coat’s origins in the military, it makes sense that the coats were originally all khaki. The color was chosen so that soldiers would remain camouflaged amidst similarly colored landscapes. But if you’re wanting to put a twist on the original khaki, while still giving a nod to its military roots, military green is a head-turner. The color is at once contemporary and classic in style and sympathetic to many of the neutral tones in your wardrobe.

 

 

Cropped Trench Coat

While the classic style’s length drops down to at least the knees, cropped versions of the trench coat are becoming increasingly popular. A cropped trench coat will fall just below the beltline, making something that’s less cumbersome and a bit less of a statement. Having the coat cut off at around the thigh can make you appear taller while drawing more attention to the lower half of your body. Simplicity is the key with a shorter-length trench coat, avoid waist belts and too much detail. Keep in mind with any smaller coat, any embellishment looks bigger and more exaggerated. The shorter coat is a great autumn option, or for anytime when you’re wearing fewer layers.

 

 

Bold Colour Trench Coat

At one point, the trench coat was available in a wide range of khaki options. Nowadays, you’re afforded a little more choice, although most colors available sit at the conservative end of the pool. Think navy, grey, black and beige. Those sartorial mavericks out there might want a little more than these boring choices, and with eye-catching tones now gracing the racks, there is some excitement to be had. Obviously, choosing a trench coat in a bold color is not going to give you the kind of versatility you get from a more conservative option. Trench coats in bold colors become the focal point of your outfit, so pay close attention to how your colors coordinate and complement it.

 

 

Trench Coat Fabric

Modern trench coats come in a variety of different materials. Some designs embrace the old-school technology of fabrics like gabardine, which hasn’t changed much since its inception. Others make use of the newest advancements in waterproof and heat technology. Meanwhile, some styles are less about function and more about fashion, using materials better suited for the catwalk than the trenches.

 

Cotton Gabardine

Cotton gabardine was one of the original materials used in trench coats. Thomas Burberry invented it in 1879, using tough, tightly woven cotton that was waterproofed both before and after construction. The benefits of the fabric are that it’s durable, lightweight, breathable, waterproof, and more comfortable than the rubberized fabrics in production when it first came out.

 

Modern Fabrics

Modern fabrics incorporate the latest technology and advancements in both natural and synthetic fibers. They boast benefits like waterproof outers, breathability, sweat-wicking properties, wind resistance and can lend themselves well to more creative and contemporary designs. These kinds of materials include Gore-tex, Tencel, and recycled polyester.

 

Leather

Leather is a more controversial fabric choice for a trench coat. While leather is exceptionally durable, wears well, and is water-resistant, it’s also heavier and warmer, which might be more than you need depending on the environment you live in. Black leather jackets also have an association with German Officers in WWII and with the henchmen of organized crime. Consequently, some people can find the style off-putting. If you’re looking for a leather trench coat, opt for lighter colors such as rich browns or deep olives.

 

Trench Coat Styles

Trench coats can vary a lot in style. However, some of the more standard features include a double-breasted cut with a belt, vented back, storm flap, and wrist straps. The most common length sits around the knee, which balances the practicality of length versus coverage, ensuring the best of both worlds. Nevertheless, modern interpretations of the trench coat can include all or none of these design elements, depending on the brand, season, and style.

 

Double Breasted

The original military-style cut of the trench coat was double-breasted with ten buttons. It was not only a masculine cut that added breadth to a man’s physique; it also protected the wearer better from the weather and helped seal in warmth. Plus, it allowed more room for features like the storm flap and oversized lapels to add extra protection. Modern double-breasted trench coats come in varying lengths with different amounts of buttons to match. It’s the ideal choice if you want a really classic look.

 

 

Single Back Vent

The original purpose of the back vent was to give soldiers the flexibility to move and run across a battlefield without inhibited leg movement. Yet, it still kept the wearer warm, dry, and protected from the winds. Modern styles have kept this practical feature, but thankfully nowadays, most wearers will only be running for the bus, not into battle.

 

 

Raglan Sleeves

Raglan sleeves are less common in trench coats but do provide increased movement and flexibility through the upper arms and shoulders. The raglan sleeve extends in one piece from the arm up to the collar rather than attaching at the edge of the shoulder. While it does have benefits, it does give the end product a slightly more casual look and feel.

 

 

Epaulets (Shoulder Tabs)

In the military, epaulets are used to attach insignia that denotes an officer’s rank without damaging the garment. During wartime, they were also used to attach equipment such as gas masks or gloves. However, in modern designs, they’re purely for aesthetics, adding another element of detail and enhancing the militaristic feel of the coat.

 

 

Storm (Gun) Flaps

The storm, or gun, flaps prevent water from running into the jacket when it’s raining. The flap sits over the button join, creating a smooth area for the water to run off rather than in. Men’s jackets feature this on the right-hand side, as that’s how the coat buttons, while it’s the opposite for women’s coats. In terms of the gun part – some say that it acted as padding or held extra padding to soften the recoil of a rifle.

 

 

Detachable D-Ring Belt

A detachable D-ring belt serves a couple of purposes. The first is to adjust the fit of the waist and torso of the jacket, just like a regular belt. Then the second purpose lies with the D-rings that allow the wearer to attach extra gear such as a utility pouch, grenades, or firearm. Of course, in modern trench coats, it’s more a legacy detail rather than a practical one.

 

 

Cuff Straps

Another practical feature, cuff straps help keep the elements out. You can adjust them to sit tighter around your wrist to prevent rain or snow from getting in at the arms. This is particularly useful if you’re doing a lot of lifting or hard labor.

 

 

How Should a Trench Coat Fit?

Trench coats are designed to fit more loosely, as they’re intended as outerwear to be worn over a suit, uniform, or another outfit. As such, it’s essential to take (or wear) the clothes you’ll wear your jacket with you when you shop to ensure a good fit. The sleeves of your trench should be long enough to completely cover the sleeves of your shirt without engulfing your hands. About an inch longer than your wrist joint is ideal. Finally, the most common and versatile length of trench coat sits around the knee. However, longer options that reach mid-calf or ankle are also available.

 

Short Men

Shorter gents are best to look at knee-length or above options. These will both elongate your legs and prevent you from feeling and looking swamped by too much fabric. However, choose a style that feels right for you.

 

Tall Men

On the flip side, tall men are better off choosing a below-knee design that won’t add the illusion of extra length to your legs. Again though, you’re the one wearing it, so pick what feels best for you.